Swim 5: Golden Gardens Right Rocks

Ballard as you have never seen it before.
7-17-09 5:00 pm
Sunny 82 degree
High Tide
Some Chop
53 degree water
100 foot vis
Holy cow. I didn’t know Seattle Snorkeling could get this good.
What a great way to test the new wet suit!
Walk the scenic path to the North-most beach access or plod along the sandy way to this northern most part of Golden Gardens Beach and put in for the Northward “right rocks” run.
We put in at the far North-East side of the beach and made our way out about 50 feet and saw an amazing life-scape in the seaweed beds. Here’s where the crabs have been hiding. We lingered here watching the sole, sanddabs and other flat fish as well as hermit crabs and dungeness. We had 30 foot visibility at this point as we played in 20 foot water.
We headed North along the rocks but about 40 feet out from shore, our eyes on the shifting bed of loose seaweed below.

Striped Sea Perch near "Green Joe"
Swimming over this sea-lettuce will shorten your trip unless you are immune to all forms of motion sickness. This stuff has a way of moving in the water that makes the rocks appear to swoosh back and forth in a rhythmic tide when it’s really you and the sea-lettuce moving. Once you realize this, you don’t have long before you start feeling woozy. My buddy and I had to beach ourselves on a piled of long concrete slabs like mermaids in the pounding surf until out stomachs stopped lurching. I nick-named the place “mermaid beach”.

Seen here, the "Green Joe" feature is named for its sea-sick discoverer.
After recovering, we went on to an interesting rock feature that drew our eye. As we rounded the headland, the character of the water and the life changed DRAMATICALLY. Visibility opened up to about 100 feet. The characteristic green of the sound turned Hawaii blue on us and suddenly there was life everywhere. A school of juvenile Steelhead kept checking me out. Then there was a dense school of what looked like Pacific Sardines. Then we rounded the rock and were stunned to see a school of about 50 large Surf Perch hiding in the shade of the rock. It was amazing.
When my buddy and I were looking at the photos over pints at Kings Hardware, I asked the waitress where she thought the pictures were taken:
“Well it’s Hawaii isn’t it?”
I proudly corrected her, “Nope. That’s Ballard – two hours ago.”
I’m not sure she believed me.
UPDATE: SWIM 6, Golden Gardens Right Rocks 2
7-18-09 5:00 pm
Sunny 85 degree
Ebbing High Tide
Choppy
53 degree water
100 foot vis
I went back the next day and made an important discovery.
I didn’t bring my friend with the camera this time, so no photos and trust me when I say that’s a shame.
But at least I FINALLY convinced my wife to come with me. She got outfitted at Cheka Looka with a 4/3 wetsuit and some new fins and a snorkel from DiscountDivers.com (their physical store is over on Westlake). We walked up to the beach and faced a fairly brisk in-shore wind that whipping up the surf into something even choppier than what had made me sick yesterday. I resolved to power through it.
When we got in, the visibility was passable @ 20 feet, but not as good as yesterday. The surf was just churning things up too much and we were swimming in sea-salad. Still, we decided to press on and see if things got better to the North. We learned in swim #3 to never accept poor conditions but to check farther along the shore. I told her about the shifty sea-lettuce and its affects, but she wanted to go and see it for herself while I followed the nice and stable sand and rocks down to “Green Joe”. So I muddled along, seeing the occasional Sole skittering away beneath me and feeling a little down that the visibility wasn’t as good as the day before, but I hoped there would still be a show around the corner like the day before.
When I looked up to check on her, she was pretty far out. Maybe 100 feet from shore. That made me nervous since I have read a lot about the currents up here and don’t know too much about the boat traffic either. I REALLY wished I had brought a “diver down” flag with me to float near by, and will do so on my next trip. I put my face down and swam farther along the coast, past mermaid beach, and wondered why she wasn’t seasick yet from the dancing weeds. They were a lot worse today as the surf was really churning. I looked up and she was…gone.
I spun all around, anxiety creeping up as I couldn’t make out any sign of her at all until – ah, there she was, 250 feet out from shore. What could she be DOING out there? It had to be WAY too deep to see a thing in this mess, so I wondered if she was in trouble maybe. Well, I would have to go out and get her to show her the real places to swim – or at least to check on her.
I took a deep breath and put my fins together for some full body swimming and was out to her in 30 seconds or so. But as I got near, I knew why she was out that far, and it nothing to do with distress. She had discovered something amazing…a Forrest that was every bit as filled with life as out best trip in Hawaii in water with 100 foot visibility. Long spindly legged crabs that would span two feet if stretched out made their way among ling cod. Huge purple and sun-burst stars defied normal scale and that school of Striped Sea perch from Yesterday…was just the small handful from the REAL school that lived out here.
Large eels, Rock Fish, Ling Cod, big Crab…And the plants here, they are just beautiful. If I get a camera, I’ll post images of this place right away.
We have nick-named the forrest “Mermaid Forrest” since it’s right by “Mermaid Beach”.
Impression: Quite simply, it blew the doors off of every other trip so far. Golden Gardens Right Rocks is the best run I’ve found.
Lesson: Try more sights that are farther off shore. The water is more clear and the variety more amazing than the surf-hugging that I’ve been doing.
Safety Note: I will need to bring a “Dive Flag” with me on any trip where I’m venturing into waters where there may be boats.
Tags: Ballard, Blue Water, Golden Gardens, Good Swim, Good Visibility, Right Rocks, Seattle













September 7th, 2009 at 9:17 am
Thanks for this website! I’m a New Yorker and just got back from a trip to Seattle where we were staying in Ballard with friends. After finding this site, I decided to check out Golden Gardens myself. Our experience wasn’t as good, unfortunately. The tide was extremely low, the shoreline was just a few feet from the rocks, there was no fish life that shallow. My 3mm wetsuit was just a mm too cold for the water. I got about twenty feet from shore and still only waist high. I starting feeling terrible about stepping on the urchin I was seeing and headed back. The water was AMAZINGLY clear considering all the boat activity and I got to see some static aquatic life. I will definitely try again someday in high tide with a 5mm wetsuit. Thanks again for this site, I was really into finding ways of snorkeling in the Puget and everybody thought I was crazy.
September 7th, 2009 at 11:44 am
Glad you enjoyed the site! Visitors like you are exactly why I’m logging all this. Sorry your swim wasn’t as good. Low tide can be pretty lame around here, so you definitely want to keep an eye on the tides. That said, I’ve had a good low-tide swim out there, but you need to head to where the action is: Mermaid Forrest.
Remember, to get any good action at Golden Gardens you will nee to head north past the long slabs of concrete until you see a big single rock sticking out of the water. Once you get there, you should see tons of sea perch. Head straight out about 200 or 300 feet from shore. Just when you start thinking “I’m heading out too far” you should see the Sargasso Forrest that we call “Mermaid Forrest”. In it you will see Ling Cod, Rock Fish, Sea Perch, all kinds of crabs, and tons of other awesome stuff.
Be sure to hose off your suit thoroughly after swimming in Sargasso as it’s an invasive species that we don’t want to spread. In fact, some ecologists are saying we should destroy places like Mermaid Forrest because they compete with the native Kelp and Eel Grass. I’m waiting to talk to more ecologists to find out if they are interested in seeing photos, locations and more from my explorations of the Seattle Coast.
To get the extra mm that you need in your suit, you can rent a 4/3 from CheckaLooka, just up the road, or you can get a 7 mil (or even a 10 mil) from Discount Divers on Westlake Ave.
Enjoy!
December 13th, 2009 at 6:21 am
hell of a lot more interesting than what I was supposed to be searching for, (cant believe I’ve got to work on a sunday!) came across your site by accident really and gave the thumbs up on stumbleupon. Thanks for the diversion! bp.